New vintage

Put on a David Bowie LP and sit back and enjoy, while we check out one of this season’s biggest and best trends with the ‘Duque Blanco’. And no, we haven’t gone mad, far from it. Even though it’s correct that the term ‘vintage’, which has been around for a good few years now, does refer to clothes taken from our parents’ wardrobe, adding the word ‘new’ to it, gives it a whole new meaning, and this is exactly what’s happening this winter.

For some time now, revered names from the fashion world such as the Northern Irish designer J.W. Anderson have been clamoring for a new era for men. Despite this era being in its infancy and clashing with the much-loved lumbersexual (that lumberjack from the mountains sporting checked shirts) with every day that passes it gains yet more ground. This latest fashion trend is ever present on the catwalks and is about to burst out on to the high street.

We’re talking about a new type of man that likes to keep up with fashion and likes to have his very own style. A new form of design instigated by Anderson at Loewe and Alessandro Michele at Gucci, whereby they draw on the spirit of contemporary dandies, such as Bowie or Mick Jagger and a language that harks back to the dazzling 70’s with wallpaper prints and elegant browns and greens, the use of leather and slightly androgynous forms with a hint of the ‘Hunky Dory’ album cover to them.

 

For some it will be complicated to adapt this trend to the street, but nobody said that fashion was an easy road to walk.

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What´s the right way to wear a suit?

1. Colour: navy blue or dark-grey are your basics. Once you have these two colours in your wardrobe, you can then up your number of suits with a pinstripe (this will show that you know what you’re talking about) or even a windowpane check suit. Houndstooth and Prince of Wales checks are for the experts. 

2. Jacket: two button or double-breasted suit, don’t accept anything else. The two button is a classic stalwart, which seems will never go out of fashion and the double-breasted suit is ever more in these days. The lower button should always be unfastened when you are standing up and you should only fully unfasten your jacket when seated. Three and four-piece suits have fallen by the wayside.

3. Waistcoat: this garment is living somewhat of a renaissance now. You can either go for a classic tailored look or a knitted one. Both are accepted, but the second option is more casual.

4. Trousers: wherever possible try and ensure that the hem opening is not excessively wide. The most appropriate width tends to be 18 or 19 centimetres. It’s never a bad idea to have turned-up suit trousers. Don’t forget, the hem of the trouser should just brush the shoe, if there’s too much fabric and it doesn’t drape properly; it creates a bunching effect, which must be avoided at all cost.

5. Shoes: although many men in Spain tend to wear moccasins with their suit, this is a big no. Gentlemen that want to stand out for their style and elegance, wear lace-up shoes (Oxford or Derby) or monkstrap shoes.